


In the Western world, the Fez occasionally serves as a symbol of relaxation. Later the turban was eliminated, the bonnet shortened, and the colour fixed to red. The Fez was initially a brimless bonnet of red, white, or black with a turban woven around. In his speech attacking Ottoman dress as decadent, he condemned the Fez as ‘the headcovering of Greeks’, tarring it by association with the recent Greco-Turkish War.

In Turkey, wearing the fez was legally banned in 1925 as part of the modernising reforms of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Initially a symbol of Ottoman modernity, the Fez came to be seen as part of an “Oriental” cultural identity. On the other hand, tradesmen and artisans generally rejected the Fez. This was a radically egalitarian measure which replaced the elaborate sumptuary laws which signalled rank, religion, and occupation, allowing prosperous non-Muslims to express their wealth in competitions with Muslims, foreshadowing the Tanzimat reforms. In 1829, he ordered his civil officials to wear the plain Fez, in the expectation that the populace at large would follow suit. After Sultan Mahmud II suppressed the Janissaries in 1826, he decreed that the official headgear for his modernised military would be the fez with a cloth wrapped around it. Both usually have tassels.īefore 1826, the Fez was only found in the Maghreb. The Fez (Turkish is Fes with plural Fezzes or Fezes), or Tarboosh / Tarboush in Arabic, is a felt hat either in the shape of a red truncated cone or in the shape of a short cylinder made of felt or kilim fabric.
